Tie sewing machine



May 12, 194 M. M. NEWMAN ET AL TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 11, 1959' 2 Sheets-Sheet l ay12,1942. M. M. NEWMAN Em. 2,28 871 TIE SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. 11, 1959 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 inn! Patented May 12, 1942 F-ICE TIE SEWING MACHINE Max M. Newman and Morris Opper, New York.

N. Y., assignors to Foundry Company, a co American Machin rporation of New Jersey Application January 11, 1939, Serial No. 250,343

, an angular plate I, which is provided with spaced Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in sewing mechanisms, more particularly to reversing mechanisms therefor.

The main object of the present invention is to provide an improved reversing device for the type of sewing machines shown in the Newman and Opper patent, 2,098,009, November 2, 1937. The drive system is important in the successful operation of the machine and presented considerable difliculty. With this-in mind, a novel device was perfected which comprises a pair of friction clutch members continuously driven from a motor and coacting with pulleys opposite adjacent faces thereof to drive the endless belts, which are equipped with crimpers for pleating and passing the necktie fabric and lining on to the needle to stitch them together during forwarding movement of the belts to drive the belts in the forward direction or in the reverse direction to remove the stitched fabric and lining from the needle. With friction clutches it will be seen that the crimper mechanism can be operated faster or slower, depending upon the pressure with which they are forced together. The

eye of the needle, which is normally accessible is retracted into the crimper mechanism during the pleating operation but returns to its normal position during the reversing, due to the yielding mounting thereof.

A further object is to provide a small stitch device which will space the first few pleats closer together so that the stitches therethrough will bearing lugs la and turnably mounted in the vertical flange of shaft which may be a lb. Shafts 4 and 4a are the lugs la and lb and in the angular plate I. Said pulley wheel 23 or-any other suitable device, whereby said shaft 4a may be can fit loosely upon the shafts band.

be shorter, as required by the trade. To this end a corrugated crimper on each belt is arranged to intermesh with the other to form the initial pleats closer together prior to pleating by the following crimpers which have the normal spacing.

Other objectsof our invention will be set forth in the following description and drawings, which illustrate a preferred embodiment thereof, it being understood that the above statement of the objects of our invention is intended generally to explain the same without limiting it in any manner.

Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a suitable construction of the machine:

Fig. 2 is a detail side elevation of the mechanism for reversingthe operation of the crimpers; Fig. 3 is a detail front elevation thereof; and Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view of the preferred arrangement of crimpers showing the formation of the initial fabric.

The parts of the device are supported upon pleats in the lining and necktie turned in opposite directions.

A pulley I is connected to the shaft 4a so as to turn with said shaft 4a. The shaft 4a may have a drive fit in the bore of the pulley 19a.

The shaft 4 is generally identical in construction with the shaft 40. save that the shaft 4 is an idler. Said shaft 4 is provided with a pulley l9, which is similar to the pulley Hit.

A longitudinal bar 22 has recesses whereby it 4 and 40. so as to serve as a. spacer. There is sufficient clearance between the bar 22 and the members l9 and l9a, so as to permit the free turning of the members l9, Illa, and the sprocket on shaft 4a.

An endless member 1, which may be a flexible steel band,- is mounted upon pulley l9a andmember IQ of the shaft 4a. The width of said member 1 exceeds the combined width of these members. Any suitable flexible endless member could be used in place of a flexible steel Said endless member 1 is provided. at its inner surfacewith spaced lateral bars I6 which mesh with the teeth of a sprocket (not shown) dis- 1 posed behind the pulley I911 in Fig. 1 and similar to the sprocket illustrated in applicant's prior Patent 2,098,009 and designated by the reference character I! therein, to which reference-may be had for further description'as to the operation ofthis structure. Since the shaft 4a, which is connected with pulley vl9a is positively driven, the steel band 1. drives the pulley I 9 and it also drives the idler shaft 4. Said pulley l9 may have recesses which mesh with bars I6.

An upper endless member 6 is provided, and this may also be a flexible steel band, and it has lateral spaced bars l6 at its inner surface, like the member 1. The upper endless member 6 is mounted on two idler pulleys 20 and 20a. Said idler pulleys -20 and 20a are mounted upon shafts 3 and 3a which areconnected to the vertical flange of the plate I. The shafts 3 and 3a are identical in construction.

The lower band 7 is provided with spaced crimping teeth 9. The width of said crimping teeth 9 is less than the total width of the band 1. The lateral .bars or teeth 9 are connected to the band lby means of rivetswhich also enter 4a is connected to driving member,

' upper 8 and 8 may be substantially triangular save for.

layers of fabric.

or pass through the inner transverse bars I6 and said rivets are provided with heads which have the same general contour as the bars 8 and are countersunk in the bars 8.

The upper endless member 6 is provided with lateral bars or teeth 8 and inner bars 16 which are connected thereto in similar manner by similar rivets.

However, the pulleys 28 and 2811 have smooth peripheries so that the members l6 do not act as driving members for the upper band 6.

The width of the upper band 6 is slightly greater than the width of the pulleys 20 and 28a. The teeth 8 extend laterally beyond the 3 upper band 6, so that the width of the teeth 8 is the same as the width of the teeth 9. The meshing between the teeth 8 and 8 drives the band 6. The cross sections of said teeth said rounded surfaces.

The teeth are formed with longitudinal recesses in which the needle N is located while the stitch is being made. This corresponds to the position of the needle which is shownin Fig. 1.

As the teeth are moved relative to the needle, and while the needle is held stationary during the formation of the stitch, the front faces of the respective teeth 8 are presented to the stationary needle.

The needle fits quite snugly between the walls of the recess at the rear faces, thus preventing any lateral bending or movement of the needle.

Since this needle is long and flexible it is important to prevent any such lateral bending of the needle. The construction of the teeth 8 is the same as the construction of the teeth 8 in this respect.

Hence when the teeth 8 and 8 mesh at the adjacent portions of the runs of the belts 6 and 1, the needle N is held without lateral bending in the aligned recesses of said teeth, and this is done while permitting the needle to enter said recesses freely and while guiding the needle as it enters said recesses.

The needle N has an enlarged butt end 26 which has a rectangular cross section. Said butt end 26 fits slidably in a hollow guide 25 which also has a corresponding rectangular cross section. The guide 25 is held by means of a bracket or arm 21, to the plate I.

The operation of the sewing machine is as follows:

The needle N is moveduntil its butt end 26 abuts the right-hand side of the guide 25, this being the position shown in Fig. l. The needle N is suitably threaded with thread T. The material which is to be sewed is fed between the bands 6 and I, at the right-hand side of the device shown in Fig. 1, so that the crimping teeth 8 and 8 crimp the fabric and also move it to the left, so that the needle N pierces the crimped While this is being done, the necessary to force the crimped layers of cloth on the needle, immediately causes the needle to move to the left until the end 26 of the needle abuts the left-hand side of the member 25. 7

Prior tothe formation of the stitch, the needle N can be pushed by hand until the butt end 26 of the needle abuts the left-hand side of the member 25. This is not necessary because the cloth pushes the needle N back almost instantly so that the needle can be considered as being stationary duringthe formation of the stitch.- In Fig. 4, a modified construction is shown pressure which is wherein the crimper-s have a different shape but are similarly secured to sprocket chains (not shown), but close enough together to clamp materials inserted between adjacent crirnpers. One crimper 30 on the sprocket chain 1 has a corrugated face intermeshing with a corrugated face of the crimper 3| on the sprocket chain 6. The leading end of the lining L is inserted between the front edge of crimper 8| and the rear face of the crimper 8 immediately ahead of it and thereby clamped as the crimper 3| meshes with the crimper 30. Thus the lining is forced upon the needle shortly before the crimpers 38 and 3| mesh with each other. The corrugations of the latter form pleats which have a closer spacing than the pleats formed by the other crimpers,

. wherefore the stitches through the first few pleats of the lining are shorter. The leading end of the fabric F is inserted between of crimper 88 and front edge of a suitably beveled crimper 82 on belt 6 to pleat the fabric and lining against the crimper 8 immediately behind the crimper 30 on belt 1 and thereby form a-single pleat of the same-narrowed spacing, the following pleats being formed with the normal spacing.

After the fabric has been moved upon the needle up to about the pulleys Na and 20a, or to any desired shorter length, the operation of the machine is reversed so that the pulley 20 turns counterclockwise and the pulley 18 turns clockwise, thus moving the crimped fabric off the needle. During this movement the friction of the work on the needle moves the needle back to the position shown in Fig. 1, so that the eye of the needle is easily accessible.

As the work is forced off the needle, either by the action of the bands or by hand, the thread must be carried along with the fabric, so as to retain the stitch. The accessibility of the eye of the needle makes it possible to pull the thread out of the eye of the needle so that the thread stays in the cloth. This can be readily done by hand, as the fabric is finally pulled off the needle, so that the thread remains in the eye of the needle and a short length of the thread projects beyond the eye of the needle, after the thread has been cut or'broken so as to release'the thread from that part thereof which has been sewed into the fabric.

As the work is forced off the needle, it may be guided by the member 28.

While the needle, has a limited to-and-fromovement, it is in effect stationary while the stitch is being made, as distinguished from sewing machines in which the needle is vibrated .in order to make the stitch.

In the reversing device provided herein a motor M continuously drives a belt 35 running over a pulley 86 on a counter shaft 31. Pulleys 38 and 39 on the latter drive belts 40 and 4| running over the pulleys 42 and 43 supported on studs 44 and 45 of brackets 46 and 41 respectively, supported on the bed plate of the machine. The belt 48 is crossed to drive the pulley 42in a direction opposite to pulley 43, and on each of the studs 44' and 45 are mounted leatherfaced clutch members 48 and 48 adapted to drive belts 50 and 5| trained over pulleys 52 and 53 on the drive shaft 54. A pair of pedals 55 and 56 are connected'by links 51 and 58 to bell cranks 59 and 60 fulcrumed on brackets 46 and 41, to force the pulleys 42 and 43, upon depression of the corresponding pedal, against their respective clutch members 48 and 48 to drive the shaft 54 the rear edge.

. their pulleys 42 and 43.

- which are narrower than the -form pleats in the leading --the pulley 23 on shaft 4a.

Thus, upon depressing one will be advance the-fabric and lining on to the needle, and upon depressing the other pedal the crimpers will travel in the reverse direction to permit removal of thestitched tie fabric and lining from the needle.

It will be observed that the pulleys 42 and 43 are stepped to permit operation of the crimpers at various speeds. Moreover, the speed of the crimpers may be varied by varying the force applied to the pedals, to permit more or less slippage between the clutch members 48 and 49 and pedal the crimpers What is claimed is:

1. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stationary needlehaving a thread extending through its, eye and lengthwise thereof, of opposed sets of uniformly spaced movable members, the members of one set being adapted to interengage with the members of the other set to form uniform pleats in and advance a necktie fabric and a lining over the eye of the needle to impale the pleated fabric and lining on the needle and thereby stitch the same, and opposed movable parts ahead of said opposed sets of members and normally disposed adjacent theeye of the needle and spaced apart from each other sumciently to permit the leading end of the fabric and lining to be impaled on the'point of the needle, said parts having teeth which are disposed closer together than said members and adapted to interengage with each other and form pleats in the leading end of the fabric andlining pleats formed by said opposed sets of members narrower pleats on said needle, whereby shorter stitches are formed in the leading end of the lining and the leading end of the fabric.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stationary needle having a thread extending .through its eye and lengthwise thereof, of opspaced movable members,

posed sets of uniformly the members of one setbeing adapted to interengage with the members of the other set to form uniform pleats in and advance a necktie fabric and a lining over the eye of the needle to impale the pleated fabric and lining on the needle and thereby stitch the same, opposed movable parts ahead of said opposed sets of members and normally disposed adjacent the eye of moved in a forward direction to pleat and end of the lining, and a device for reversing the and impale said the needle and spaced apart from each other sufliciently to permit the leading end of the fabric and lining to be impaled on the point of the needle, said parts having teeth which are disposed closer together than said members and adapted to inter-engage with each other and end of the lining which are narrower than the said opposed sets of members whereby narrower pleats formed by.

stitches are formed in the leading end of the lining, mechanism for operating said parts and sets of members to stitch the fabric and lining together with narrower stitches at the leading devices and members operation of said mechanism to return said parts to their normal position adjacent the eye of the needle.

be located in said recesses to stitch the fabric to the lining, and opposed parts on said members having teeth adapted to intermesh upon one end of said lining, said teeth having a narrower spacing than said crimpers to produce shorter spacing of the pleats formed in the lining by said opposed parts whereby shorter stitches will be formed therethrough than through the pleats formed by the uniformly spaced crimpers.

4. In a necktie sewing mechanism, the. combination with first set of opposed devices having toothed interengaging faces for forming several narrow pleats in the leading end of a necktie lining only, a pair of opposed endless traveling carriers, one supporting each of said opposed devices, I set of opposed devices also supported respectively a second by said carriers behind said first mentioned devices, said second set also having toothed interengaging faces arranged to form a single narrow pleat in both said lining and the leading edge of a necktie fabric, a series of opposed members supported on said carriers respectively behind said first and second sets of devices, providing interengaging teeth of greater spacing between tooth centers than those of the first and second sets to form pleats of greater spacing-in the remainder of said fabric and lining, and means imparting movement to said carriers to cause said to form said pleats and to advance them onto the needle. 5. Sewing mechanism for sewing together fabric necktie parts comprising a set of opposed endless members, pulleys over which said endless members are trained to provide opposed straight runs connected by curved portions passing around said pulleys, a needle extending along the adjacent opposed runs, toothed crimper bars mounted on and extending transversely of each of said members in teeth of the crimpers ing with the teeth of member along fabric partsinserted between said runs and advance the pleats onto the needle, the crimpers on one of said members overhanging oneedge of the member, said overhanging ends of adjacent crimper bars on one member having adjacent opposed gripping faces extending generally perpendicular with respect to the plane of said member on said straight runs, said crimper bars being spaced apart on said runs a distance such that said faces are spaced apart to readily receive a fabric tie part as they pass around the curved portions of said members but sufficiently close together as to be separated a distance apart not on one member intermeshthe crimpers on the other when on the straightruns oi said members so as to clamp the fabric tie part between said faces as the crimper bars enter upon the straight runs to draw said part along with the members.

MAX M. NEWMAN. MORRIS OPPER.

comprising a pair of opan elongated stationary needle, a

side by-side relation, the I said adjacent runs to pleat the 

